2014 Muse-muse Exhibition [隨 - 想]畫展

隨 · 想

Muse – muse

香港視覺藝術中心

Hong Kong Visual Arts Centre

13-18 August 2014

人間情味

香港有很多的攤檔及流動小販，他們每天日出而作、日入而息，為市民提供生活所需。他們是香港跳動的脈搏，亦是香港的特色服務行業。社會急速發展，許多傳統的攤檔及小販，無聲無息地消失，或只能以”走鬼”的形式經營。他們默默貢獻自己的勞力，在社會中卻佔著極其低微的地位。

隨著香港社會急速發展，小販排檔有限的生存空間逐步萎縮，傳統市集那種近鄰關係及社區歸屬感，日漸消失。其實，小販與顧客間，並非純然買與賣的交易關係，而是存在可以閒話家常的情誼；小販間亦守望相助，關係密切。人性化地為平民提供價廉物美貨品的小販，遍佈港九。願這股獨特的人間情味，得以承傳下去，繼續滋潤香港人的心靈。

Hong Kong is filled with stalls and mobile hawkers who work every day from sunrise to sunset, providing daily necessities for its citizens. They are the heartbeat of Hong Kong and a distinctive service industry. With rapid social development, many traditional stalls and hawkers have silently disappeared or are reduced to operating as makeshift "street hawkers." They contribute their labour silently, yet occupy a very low status in society.

As Hong Kong society develops rapidly, the limited space for hawkers and stalls to survive is gradually shrinking, and the neighbourly bonds and sense of community found in traditional markets are fading. In fact, the relationship between hawkers and customers is not merely a transaction of buying and selling; it involves friendly small talks and personal warmth. Hawkers also look out for one another for mutual supports. These hawkers who humanely provide affordable, high-quality goods to the common people, are found throughout Hong Kong. May this unique human touch be passed on and continue to nourish the hearts of Hong Kong people.

我這批作品嘗試摸仿民間向神祇奉祀的習俗，參照民間木刻的形式，為這些籍籍無名的小行業工作者造像，把平凡的攤檔小販地位，提升為聖君、至尊、太尉、娘娘等，藉此向他們致敬。我希望在創意世界的天地裡，為這群自力更生的小人物，提供一個遮風擋雨的地方，他們不用再為生計而與食環署小販事務隊衝突，也寄託我對他們的感謝及美好願望。

In this series of works, I attempt to emulate the folk custom of worshipping deities, referencing the form of traditional woodblock prints to create portraits of these nameless workers in small trades. I would like to pay tribute to these pedlars and hawkers, by elevating their ordinary status to that of sacred lords, supreme rulers, grand commanders, and goddesses. I hope that in the realm of creativity, I can provide a sheltered place for these self-reliant, humble people - freeing them from conflicts with the Food and Environmental Hygiene Department's Hawker Affairs Team over their livelihoods – and to express my gratitude and best wishes to them.

Mixed media on wood

混合素材木本
100 X 100cm
2014

[大頭菜文藝月刊 : 人間情味 - 禾迪] 第6期

飛機欖至尊

名字：郭鑒基

綽號：「飛機欖之父」、「基伯」

懷舊涼果飛機欖是許多港人的成長印記，不少成長於上世紀的香港人，對於飛機欖伯伯的獨特形象，一定不會感到陌生。七十五年來，基伯每天揹綠色鐵皮做的飛機欖箱，一邊彈著秦琴，一邊唱「飛機欖歌」，擺賣飛機欖，他的腳印遍佈港九新界。

自十三歲起，基伯以他獨特的「掟上樓」方式，售賣他自家配方的薄荷甘草欖。以前住屋樓層不高，客人只需用紙包裹零錢，擲到樓下，基伯便會將飛機欖拋到指定的樓層。每趟買賣就是一場絕技表演，而「飛機欖」亦因此而遠近馳名。

基伯有兩名從事金融業的子女，晚年生活無憂，但仍堅持「做得幾耐就幾耐」，用自己雙手賺錢飲茶，這種不怕挨苦、樂天知命的個性，是老一代港人的特質。

基伯於2013年12月9日逝世，享年八十八歲。許多香港人上世紀的集體回憶，亦隨著飛機欖伯伯的離去而悄然消失。

Airplane Olive Supreme

Name: Kwok Kam-kei

Nicknames: "Father of Airplane Olives," "Uncle Kei"

Airplane olives, a nostalgic preserved fruit, are a cherished childhood memory for many Hong Kong people. Many who grew up in the last century will be familiar with the distinctive figure of Uncle Airplane Olive. For 75 years, Uncle Kei carried his green tin box of airplane olives, playing the qinqin musical instrument and singing the "Airplane Olive Song" as he sold his olives. His footprints covered Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, and the New Territories.

From the age of thirteen, Uncle Kei sold his homemade mint and licorice olives using his unique "tossing-up-floor" method. Back then, residential buildings were low-rise; customers would simply wrap their coins in paper, toss them the street below, and Uncle Kei would toss the olives up to the designated floor. Each transaction was a performance, and because of this the "Airplane Olives" became famous far and wide.

Uncle Kei had two children working in finance, ensuring a comfortable retirement. However, he insisted on “working as long as I can”, earning his own living with his own hands. This willingness to work hard and optimistic attitude were characteristic of Hong Kong’s older generation.

Uncle Kei passed away on December 9, 2013, at the age of 88. With his passing, many of the collective memories of Hong Kong’s last century quietly disappeared as well.

補鞋太尉

名字：湯鴻貴

綽號：「湯記補鞋」、「湯伯」

湯記補鞋現年八十多歲的老闆湯鴻貴，二十多年來，守在九龍城的橫街內，靠著一雙巧手，鮮活地把鞋匠這門傳統手藝，承傳下去。

湯伯在1 9 4 9年來到香港時，因為不懂廣東話，投靠在香港開上海飯店的舅父做小侍應。後來，他加入了某著名的皮鞋公司，年輕時在上海學來的鞋匠技術，得以大派用場。前港督葛量洪60年代經常到該公司訂做皮鞋，其中不乏湯伯的傑作，「連葛量洪都讚，佢着得好開心。」。1983年皮鞋公司光榮結業，湯伯亦隨即離開了任職20年的鞋匠事業。

後來，一位同鄉移民，將經營多年的補鞋小攤檔，交給湯伯打理，讓他再次踏上鞋業生涯。憑著「四桶椅」及幾十年熟能生巧的補鞋工藝，無論甚麼奇難雜症，湯伯都有辦法起死回生；連影星沈殿霞生前亦專程找他補鞋。不過經營小攤檔，往往要面對路人投訴、小販管理隊的勸諭離開和告票罰款。幸好，後來政府計畫保留一些具本土特色的手作工匠，才在城南角道的橫街內，劃了一個固定的檔位，讓湯伯得以有牌經營。

補鞋及其他修補的手藝，源自節儉、環保的美德。工匠如何巧妙地利用自己的手藝與工具配合，本身已經是一門藝術。湯伯本著敬業樂業精神，「我好鍾意做，我唔退休。」為保存行業的一點薪火，為守護著每一雙腳，在寂靜橫街內，默默散發著他的生命力。

The Cobbler Grand Commander

Name: Tong Hung Kwai

Nickname: "Tong Kee Cobbler," "Uncle Tong"

Tong Hung Kwai, the eighty-plus-year-old owner of Tong's Shoemaking stall, has been preserving the traditional of shoemaking and shoe repair for over twenty years in a side street in Kowloon City, using his skilled hands to vividly pass on this skilful art.

When Uncle Tong arrived in Hong Kong in 1949, he couldn't speak Cantonese and worked as a waiter for his uncle, who owned a Shanghai restaurant. Later, he joined a well-known leather shoemaking company, where the shoe-repair skills he had learned in Shanghai when he was young proved invaluable. Former Hong Kong Governor Alexander Grantham frequently commissioned shoes from the company in the 1960s, many of which were among Uncle Tong's skilful works. "Even Grantham praised them, saying he was very happy wearing them." In 1983, the shoe company closed down, and Uncle Tong left his shoemaking career after 20 years of service.

Later, a fellow immigrant entrusted uncle Tong with his long-established shoe repair stall, allowing him to return to the shoe industry. With his traditional "four-barrel stool" and decades of honed shoe-repair skills, he could revive even the most difficult shoe repairs; even the late actress Lydia Shum sought him out for shoe repairs. However, running a small stall often meant facing complaints from passersby, warnings from hawker-control officers, and fines. Fortunately, a later government program to preserve certain locally distinctive crafts allotted a fixed stall in a side street on Shing Nam Kok Road, allowing uncle Tong to operate with a license.

Shoe repair and other mending crafts originate from the virtues of thrift and environmental protection. The way a craftsman cleverly combines skill and tools is itself an art. Uncle Tong, with a dedicated and passionate work ethic, said, "I really enjoy doing this; I won't retire." To preserve a spark of the craft and guarding every pair of feet, he quietly radiates his vitality in the quiet side street.

雞蛋仔聖君

名字：吳旭輝

綽號：「雞蛋仔伯伯」、「吳伯」

雞蛋仔伯伯吳旭輝，三十年來靠一雙手，在銅鑼灣大坑一帶製作雞蛋仔，養活一家五口。他把大部份收入拿回鄉下養家，自己孤身在港，過著簡樸生活。

吳伯的雞蛋仔與別不同，全因他態度認真，堅持真材實料，以炭火製作；雖然比其他人用電爐的時間長，但卻能做到外殼脆、內鬆軟，因而遠近馳名。吳伯亦堅持即叫即燒，務求每位顧客吃到新鮮、熱辣、香脆的雞蛋仔。

每天收檔後，吳伯都會把賣剩的蛋漿全部倒掉，徹底清潔木頭車及爐具；最後再以雙重布帳將木頭車包好。清潔需時，吳伯卻堅持做足每個程序，因為是「吃下肚的嘛」。每星期又會大清潔一次，將爐具消毒，確保食物安全。

2011年，吳伯成為網絡熱捧對象，同時亦引起食環署職員的關注。同年4月，數十名街坊聚集大坑，企圖守護吳伯及其木頭車，最終吳伯連人帶車，依例被帶走。事件前後均獲網民極大關注，更有熱心人成立了雞蛋仔伯伯專頁。後來吳伯獲社福團體邀請，在工作坊分享他的製作心得，及在西九活動中擺檔，吸引市民慕名光顧。

雞蛋仔伯伯對製作雞蛋仔的堅持、認真、專業態度，傳承自香港傳統行業的美德。吳伯在2013年8月8日因癌病離世，享年74歲。

Egg Waffle Sacred Lord

Name: Ng Yuk Fai

Nicknames: "Uncle Egg Waffle", "Uncle Ng"

Egg waffle vendor Uncle Ng Yuk Fai has, for thirty years, relied on his own two hands to make egg waffles around the Tai Hang area of Causeway Bay, supporting a family of five. He sends most of his earnings back to his hometown to support his family, while he lives a simple life alone in Hong Kong.

Uncle Ng's egg waffles are different from others because of his serious attitude and insistence on using high-quality ingredients and making them over charcoal. Although it takes longer than the electric stoves others use, he manages to make the waffles crispy on the outside while soft on the inside, which is why he is famous far and wide. Uncle Ng also insists on cooking each batch to order so every customer gets fresh, hot, aromatic, and crunchy egg waffles.

Every day after closing up, Uncle Ng would pour out all the leftover egg batter and thoroughly clean the wooden cart and stove; finally, he would cover the wooden cart with a double sheet of cloth tent. Cleaning takes time, but Uncle Ng insists on doing every step properly because it's "food that's going into your stomach." He also does a thorough cleaning once a week, sterilizing the stove to ensure food safety.

In 2011, Uncle Wu became a widely celebrated figure online, which also drew the attention of Food and Environmental Hygiene Department staff. In April of the same year, dozens of neighbourhood residents gathered in Tai Hang, attempting to protect Uncle Wu and his wooden cart. Ultimately, Uncle Ng and his cart were taken away according to regulations. The incident gathered significant attention online, with some enthusiastic supporters even creating a dedicated page for Uncle Egg Waffles. Later, Uncle Ng was invited by social welfare organizations to share his egg waffle-making skills at workshops and to set up a stall at events in West Kowloon, attracting many customers.

Uncle Egg Waffles' dedication, seriousness, and professionalism in making egg waffles embodied the virtues of traditional Hong Kong industries. Uncle Ng passed away from cancer on August 8, 2013, at the age of 74.

潮服娘娘

名字：Tracy

綽號：趙太

趙太八、九十年代已開始在花園街排檔經營，隨著香港經濟起飛，生意蒸蒸日上。趙太與趙先生合力經營排擋已十六、七年，趙太鎮守大本營，趙生則負責管理貨物。他兩經營生意靈活變通，售賣的貨品順應季節、潮流及顧客需要而變動，比如：早前賣手袋，前一陣子賣玉器，最近賣潮人衣服褲子。

自從十幾年前兩位女兒先後出世，為了讓孩子獲得良好教育，夫婦倆毅然放棄內地發展順利的工作，回港同心協力經營排檔生意。趙太為了讓兩個女兒能專心讀書，不用她們到排擋幫忙，只望她們能學業有成。兩個女兒也很爭氣，學業成績良好，更是智優學生，令父母感到非常驕傲及欣慰。

趙太說花園街人情味濃，小販與顧客間並非單純買與賣的交易關係，而是存在可以閒話家常的情誼；小販間亦守望相助，關係密切。自從2011年大火後，排擋小販的關係和睦了許多；再加上有一群同業及義工幫忙，為小販爭取權益，大家互助互諒，比以前更團結和諧。

像趙先生、趙太這樣為下一代而勞碌一生的父母，舉目皆是；像他們那樣人性化地為平民提供價廉物美貨品的小販，遍佈港九。衷心希望當局能完善規劃小販政策，讓他們繼續自力更生，為普通市民提供價廉物美的貨品；亦能使小販攤檔，成為香港的旅遊亮點。願這股獨特的人間情味，得以承傳下去，繼續滋潤香港人的心靈。

Fashion goddess

Name: Tracy

Nickname: "Mrs Chiu"

Mrs. Chiu began running a stall on Fa Yuen Street in the late 1980s and early 1990s. As Hong Kong’s economy took off, the business flourished. Mrs. Chiu and Mr. Chiu have run the stall together for about sixteen or seventeen years. Mrs. Chiu minds the stall while Mr. Chiu manages the stock. They are flexible and adaptable in their business: the items they sell change according to the seasons, trends, and customer demand — earlier they sold handbags, jade items a while ago, and most recently trendy clothes and trousers.

Since the birth of their two daughters over a decade ago, the couple resolutely gave up their promising careers in mainland China and returned to Hong Kong to run their street stall business together, all in order to ensure their children received a good education. Mrs. Chiu wanted her two daughters to focus on their studies, so she didn't have them help out at the stall, hoping only that they would excel academically. The two daughters lived up to their expectations, achieving excellent, making their parents extremely proud and gratified.

Mrs. Chiu said that Fa Yuen Street has a strong sense of community, and the relationship between vendors and customers is not just a simple transaction of buying and selling, but rather one of camaraderie where they can chat casually. The vendors also help each other, maintaining close ties. Since the big fire in 2011, the relationships among the food stall vendors have become much more harmonious. In addition, with the help of a group of fellow vendors and volunteers, who fight for the rights of the vendors, everyone has been more supportive and understanding of one another - making them more united and harmonious than before.

Parents like Mr. and Mrs. Chiu, who work hard their whole lives for their children, are everywhere; street vendors who, like them, humanely provide affordable, good-quality goods to common people are found throughout Hong Kong and Kowloon. I sincerely hope the authorities can improve hawker policies, allowing these vendors can continue to be self-reliant and provide affordable, high-quality goods to ordinary citizens; and also enabling hawker stalls to become a tourist attraction in Hong Kong. May this unique human touch be passed on and continue to nourish the hearts of Hong Kong people.

資料取材自

Data sourced from

13/12/2013 頭條日報

31/7/2011；13/9/2010 蘋果日報
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQF-DVgAoqE

張浩賢：『匠心手作』 (香港：上書局，2010年)

東方互動 on.cc

香港獨立媒體 http://www.immediahk.net/

https://www.facebook.com/eggwaffleuncleng

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SkzgWUT_y0

http://hk.apple.nextmedia.com/news/art/20110411/15155814

聯區小販發展平台：『悠悠綠箱子 – 排檔小販的故事』 (香港：生命工場Life Workshop，2013年)